What do the people of Livorno cook on cold winter days to warm both belly and heart? Bordatino, of course, here it is the traditional recipe that I followed to make it.

The image features a terracotta bowl filled with Bordatino alla Pisana, placed on a dark wooden cutting board for a rustic presentation. The bowl is positioned on a wooden table sprinkled with whole black peppercorns, adding a decorative and authentic touch. A grey napkin and a spoon with a detailed handle lie beside the bowl, ready for a meal. The Bordatino shows a rich texture with visible pieces of leafy greens, possibly black cabbage, submerged within the stew. Whole beans, which have a light, creamy color, float atop the stew, drawing the eye and suggesting a hearty, satisfying dish. The overall composition is simple and elegant, emphasizing the dish's traditional, comforting nature.

Bordatino Livornese (Polenta and Bean Stew)

Guido Pasquariello

Blend polenta with bean broth and black kale for a hearty, traditional meal, for anyone looking to eat healthy without sacrificing taste.

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Prep Time 30

Cook Time 20

Course Main Course, Soup

Cuisine Italian, Tuscan

Servings 4

Equipment

Knife
Skillet
Large pot

Ingredients

7 ounces dried borlotti beans about 1 cup
7 ounces instant polenta about 1 ⅓ cups
7 ounces black kale stems removed and leaves chopped (about 4 cups chopped)
1 carrot finely chopped
1 onion finely chopped
1 celery stalk finely chopped
4 tablespoons tomato paste
2 cloves garlic
5 sage leaves
1 small chili pepper optional
Olive oil
Salt
Black pepper

Instructions

Soak Beans: Soak the borlotti beans overnight in cold water to soften.
7 ounces dried borlotti beans
Cook Beans: Drain the beans and boil them in a large pot with the garlic cloves (peeled) and sage leaves for about 2 hours, or 1 hour in a pressure cooker. Salt the water only at the end of cooking.
2 cloves garlic, 5 sage leaves, Salt
Prepare Broth: Remove some beans with a slotted spoon and puree the rest through a sieve to create a thick broth.
Sauté Vegetables: In another pot, gently cook the chopped carrot, celery, and onion in a splash of olive oil until softened. Add the chili pepper here if using.
1 carrot, 1 onion, 1 celery stalk, Olive oil, 1 small chili pepper
Prepare Kale: Clean the kale by removing the tough ribs and wilted leaves, then wash thoroughly. Chop the leaves and add them to the sautéed vegetables.
7 ounces black kale
Simmer: Add a few ladles of bean broth and tomato paste to the pot. Cook for about 10 minutes, or until the kale is tender.
4 tablespoons tomato paste
Thicken with Polenta: Move the pot off the heat and stir in the reserved whole beans and a slow stream of polenta, continuously stirring to prevent lumps. Return to the heat and cook according to the polenta package instructions, about 5 minutes, adding more broth if needed.
7 ounces instant polenta
Serve: Keep the Bordatino somewhat soupy, similar to semolina in consistency. Serve hot, drizzled with olive oil and a generous sprinkle of freshly ground black pepper.
Black pepper

Notes

Bean Substitute: If borlotti beans are unavailable, use pinto beans or cranberry beans as they share a similar texture and flavor profile.

Polenta Preparation: For those without access to instant polenta, traditional coarse-ground cornmeal can be used. It requires about 40 minutes of cooking with frequent stirring in boiling water or broth until creamy.

Kale Alternative: In the absence of black kale, substitute with curly kale or Swiss chard. These alternatives offer a similar texture and a slightly milder flavor.

Cooking Beans Without a Pressure Cooker: If you don’t have a pressure cooker, soak the beans overnight, then boil in a regular pot for about 2 to 2.5 hours or until tender. Incorporate garlic and sage as specified in the recipe during the cooking process.

Enjoy Bordatino Livornese hot right after preparation. For a richer flavor, consider adding diced pancetta to the vegetable sauté. Traditionalists may opt for non-instant polenta, which will need about 40 minutes to cook, requiring more broth for a proper consistency.

Stirring Up Tradition: My Bordatino Alla Livornese Experience

Bordatino alla Pisana, cooking in a medium-sized metal pot on a stove. The pot is in the foreground with handles on both sides. Inside, the Bordatino features a thick, vibrant yellow-orange broth, likely from the inclusion of legumes (like beans) and tomatoes. Dark green leaves of black cabbage or similar leafy greens stand out against the broth's color. The greens look crisp, suggesting that the dish is midway through cooking. A wooden spoon is lifting a portion of this dense, colorful stew, revealing other ingredients like chunks of bread or diced vegetables. The richness and abundance of ingredients indicate a hearty dish.

As I stir the Bordatino alla Livornese, I’m reminded of the timeless tradition it carries within every spoonful. This isn’t just a soup; it’s a testament to the care and patience that defines Italian cooking.

With each swirl of the whisk, the flavors of the beans, cornmeal, and Tuscan kale transform into more than just a meal—they become a culinary hug from Livorno itself. It’s a unique blend of simplicity and dedication that mirrors the spirit of its birthplace, a city that proudly cradles the essence of comfort food in its heart.

For those eager to delve deeper into the local cuisine, the link here is a trove of Livorno’s culinary treasures, offering insights into other traditional dishes that narrate Livorno’s rich gastronomic story. This Bordatino alla Livornese stands out not just for its heartiness but for the way it encapsulates a piece of Livorno in every bite. I urge you to take that journey, one dish at a time.